V8droptop

Hello everyone.

This is going to be short and sweet, without a lot of photos for now as I don't have many yet. But I'd like to outline my build so far. I am building an NB2 with LS7 motor transplanted, running an E67 ECM, T56, and Ford 8.8 rear end. Ideally I am going to put the specs here first, and keep them updated. Keep in mind, currently the car is stripped, and all I have is the diff/subframe together. Engine is being built.

Engine Specs (working model, in progress):
-LS7 block, Darton wet sleeved block
Block had one bad sleeve, originally was going to do one, then was going to do ERL superdeck, decided on wet sleeves for strength/economical balance
- LS7 Stock Rods, Stock pistons, Stock crank
Using the stock titanium rods due to weight. The Titanium rods vs H-beam
aftermarket steel rods saves you 3.3lbs (4xx grams vs 6xx grams for one
popular aftermarket rod)
TOTAL for this is about $2400 in machine work for the sleeves, bearings, etc and assembly, $900 for the block, and $1,100 for the rods/pistons/crank/lifters. Not ideal price, but its done.
-Stock LS7 heads to Air-Flow Research for cnc and hand porting
Tony Mamo will be handling the port work. He will also handle the cam
cam selection, spring selection, and assembly. This will be Stock TI intake
valves, aftermarket solid stem exhaust valves, PAC spring/retainer kit, and
a to be yet spec'd cam. This is still tenative/in-progress
-FAST102mm Intake for LS7
To be ported by AFR. Coupled with the ported heads, this will offer a
good bump everywhere, but especially in the 3000-4000 range per dyno
charts. The best ported stock intakes don't match it.
-Morrel lifters, Comp Cams Trunion kit, Comp cams push rods
Lifters and trunion kit for reliability mods mostly. On the shelf. Pushrods
to be spec'd on assembly.
TOTAL for this is about $5,000 give or take. Heads are $1000, intake was $750, Trunion kit was $110, Lifters were "free" with rods/pistons/crank, Port work with cam/springs/all hardware is quoted at $2,700.
-Tentative engine items:
-E67 ECM/Pedal/Wiring harness
-Scoggin-dickey LS7 wetsump conversion spacer
-LS3 style oil pump/pickup/timing set
-Halltech Superbee Intake
-Sensors and everything else from Donor 5.3
-LS7 engine covers
-LS9 valve covers/coils
-LSx corvette front drive accessories
-Turn-one steering pump
-LS2/3 ATI damper
-Lots of stuff, obviously left. Going to get block/heads intake done, then
begin in-house assembly
-1 7/8 Primary long tube headers (V8R style, Kooks said they can
Probably pull it off)
Differential
-Ford 8.8 Lincoln MKVIII Rear aluminum Diff
Self-explanatory, bought two for some reason
-V8Roadsters diff mount w/poly bushings
Self-explanatory
-Ford Racing Torsen Type-II or Type-IIR
I bought both a Torsen Type-II and R from ford racing, not sure which I
will use yet. Heard of longevity issues with TIIR unit.
-Lincoln Mark-VIII rear spindles
Using the Mark8 rear spindles with mustang 4.5x5 bolt pattern hubs
in order to sneak in Mark VIII axles, shortened. This required a custom
lower control arm set and modified upper control arms
Transmission
-T56 C5 MM6 gear set transmission
What started life as a C5 Corvette T56 is basterdized with SSR, LS1 and a
few other parts to create a T56 w/best syncro sets of the C5, MM6 gear
ratios which are preferred, and SSR output shaft, the largest availiable.
Uses a TH400 output yoke.
-MGW shifter
Self-explanatory. Favorite of the f-body crowd
Subframes
-Hung up between BF/V8R, because of my engine chocie
-Going custom on the center trans/frame rail connectors.
-More will come as I have a welder, and I know how to use it ;-)

I left out a lot of the stuff I have in the works but is not going together till the test fitting begins. I am waiting for the engine to come in, decide on the subframe, and then test fit that to start. Currently, the whole of the car is apart for the swap, and I'm working on finalizing the rear end to get the car rolling again.

I still need to figure out what needs removal from the stock wiring, so I can groom the factory harness to have as few connections as possible. I'd like to ideally make a simple body harness, keeping the vss and tach/etc where needed to run the gauges. Still need to decide on a VSS converter box, too.




I hope that's a good introduction. This is a project in its infancy, but its coming along nice. I hope to have the engine at my door by August and start a little more then.

V8droptop

_Reserving for Pics_

MX-Brad

Cool. I wish I had the budget for a build like that. I'm doing a 5.0 due to cost, but it'll still be a fun ride. I'm finishing assembling the bottom end this weekend. Just a mild, close to factory rebuild. Yours is going to be a riot.

V8droptop

I'm pushing the law of diminishing returns to the limit, I think. You can get 7-8/10ths there for half the cost, I think.

Your 5.0, are you going with the any of the milder improvements like GT40 heads, good intake, 347, etc? 5.0 is a fun motor, and you can get it done on a budget for sure. I'll be a reliable ride with respectable horsepower, something to be said about that. Myself, I'm really worried about my traction, braking, abs/trac control, and its handling habits. There's going to be a lot of fine tweaking of the chassis to keep it under control in the end.

The budget is not as bad as it seems, I should still come in under $20k for the whole swap, and get a good bit back on parts sold. Not bad for what you end up with.

charchri4

Wow. Just wow. I tip my hat for awesomeness! Subscribed!

MX-Brad

This first engine is just a stock spec rebuild. I want to iron everything else out like cooling and suspension and get it reliable before I build the next engine. The next one will have all the goodies. Good luck with your build. I'll be watching with envy.
Brad

V8droptop

As everyone has said, its the little things that can eat you up. Here is why getting a bare block sucks. I'm likely going to buy all this new vs dumpster diving at the Junkyard. I doubt we have much for Gen IV engines available anyway. I managed to throw another 100 or so on there in gaskets, crank bolt, etc. Btw, I can't believe the crank bolt is like 4 dollars. 5.95 for an LS7 version. No excuse not to replace it every time. I even bought two just in case.

Meierznutz

-8D... is this your proposed build or have you started to collect parts? You state you have $100 set aside for gaskets...better look those up again. I picked up a top end kit for my LS-1 and it was a lot more than that. Crank bolts are pricey but when you realize they are one time use it is worth it. I have one that I painted bright orange so that I know when it is in the crank it has to be removed. I use it for turning the engine and setting the damper in place. When I remove one I immediately toss it in the trash so it wont get mixed up and reused.
Best of luck with the build....give a shout if you have questions!

V8droptop

Oh, no, the $100 was what I added to the cart just last night. Keep in mind, on my top end I'm using the Fast 102 intake, it comes with gaskets, as do a few other things, such as my oil pan, and the front and rear cover and valley cover also come with gaskets from GM, at least the PNs I have in that cart. LS7 head gaskets are $33/ I think. I am probably using stock GM bolts. I will think about head studs, It depends on if I think I will be tearing it apart a lot. I am also looking at LS9 valve covers for $400, loaded coils.

As far as what is purchased, I have the block, rods and crank at the machine shop. My heads are on the way to Tony M. He has the intake. Working on other pieces but I have a half dozen spares, like ls7 intake and morrel lifters, comp cams trunion kit, etc.

I also have a few V8r pieces and have done a lot of work on the diff end, and I have a C5 transmission I'm rebuilding. Really, the project is in its infancy still.

charchri4

I'm confused. Nick are you in Moorhead or someplace you can't say here that is way more dangerous?

V8droptop

I live in Moorhead, I'm in Iraq currently. Its only slightly more dangerous. I work overseas on a rotational basis. But I have internet and phone access, and way to much time, thus the large time on forums, and hoarding car parts. I seriously spend 1-2hrs a day on the classifieds of LS related sites scavanging parts. I just scored a ls1 t56 w/bad 3rd gear for cheap. Can't ever have enough crap, right?

V8droptop

So, no progress from the builders at home, but I think time goes by so slowly here, I should stop calling every day and heckling them. In the mean time, my top end guy has everything set for me, and the bottom end is coming to me when I get home to be finished, tenatively. I'm hoping to get the engine in by sept when I'm home next. we shall see.

Here are some nice dynos to check over. A good comparison is the lg head/fast102 intake/tb dyno. I'll be close to that, maybe more with my cam and ported intake/ported throttle body. Also, I'll hopefully have 1 7/8 headers instead of the 1 3/4 shown there. But I assume my exhaust won't be as nice, we will see.

C6 Z06 Dyno Graphs - LG Motor Sports

V8droptop

More excitement to add! I got a lead on a turn one power steering pump, the fully blue printed kind, so I'm trying to add that to the pile. As well, I picked up a Halltech MF107R intake, a bit bigger than the 103 I wanted, but I'll already be needing a tune, so its better in this case. I just hope it clears with enough cutting. I also added Yella terra 1.8 ratio Shaft rockers to the list, due to a different direction with the cam. We finally spec'd the cam! It sounds great, not mild anymore, but not terribly aggressive. Here is an example on a 383 car, so it will mellow out with the larger 427:
http://tinyurl.com/ld89sap


I also have a lot of parts to get rid of at home, including 2 motors from my miata, LSx parts (already selling some stuff ha!) and a lot of other stuff from audis, jet skis, etc. It will help clear some space, and add funding to the project.

Also, I'm really excited to add the aero catch pieces to the car. They look really slick, obviously going to be near the end of the build, a long ways off, but I can't wait to do this step and put the hood on! Here's FMs instructions on this matter.
http://www.flyinmiata.com/support/in...0CAI%20kit.pdf

Lastly, I added these to the list. I'll order once my motor is otherwise assembled. They really clean up the look, I feel:
http://www.nookandtranny.com/mm5/mer...egory_Code=TCV

V8droptop

So, my last hitch home was just more of the same parts ho-ing and organizing. When I return, I have the AFR heads/intake/throttlebody waiting for me. As well, the block is completed. The oem pistons have been recoated and I'm glad for that. I have my Yella terra shaft rockers as well. So the first order of business will be throwing the motor on the stand, putting in head studs and gaskets, getting the heads and rockers on, and installing the cam. After that, I have to clearance the windage tray and measure clearance of the oil pan. A small "hump" needs to be added to clear one rod on the V8R pan, but after that I should be golden.

As well, when I get in I need a machine shop to finish the rear end. I'll be getting the hubs done and custom half-shafts made, and bolting the rear in..

My wheel/tire combo has been selected, but I still don't know if it will clear, so that's also on the list of things to do, still having trouble finding a machinist who will work with my hubs, but shouldn't be too tough.

Cheers,
Nick

Meierznutz

Nick, there is a fully assembled Boss Frog rear diff with an aluminum 8.8 over on Miata.net for $2200. It has 3.73 and a posi with stage 3 axles installed through brand new broached hubs. I don't think you could build one for less. It was even powder coated already (black/gold but you could repaint). Hope this helps... Chris

V8droptop

That would be enticing. I'll check it out, then I can unload all I have with me currently. I have everything but my axles made, currently. But as it sits, i'm 90% there. Thanks man,

Nick

V8droptop

Sticking to my guns on this subframe Meier.... I'm fairly close to finishing with what I have. Hubs are out getting done, once complete I just need my axles shortened, but I have hubs/axles that fit. The center shaft needs shortening, is all.

In other news, this happened yesterday:




These are my 18" wheels with my Wilwood Billet superlite calipers, on a Mazda 3 2.3l Rotor with the RX-7 5x114.5 hubs. The hub centers all match up, actually, which is great. The rotor pictures is 12.1", I may be able to go with the Mazda-speed 3 Rotors which are a bit larger at 12.7". I'm sure this is overkill, but Its also parts I have around and surprisingly all fit together well. I'm going to keep looking into the brakes as I get my front hubs done next week.

Its now quite cold out today and I'm feeling like staying indoors, but I finished my Ground Control coil overs on the Mazda-3 this morning, which turned out quite well. At maximum height its still lower than before. Need the clearance for winter, which is about 12 hours away :-)
The shocks needed a bit of paint, they were starting to get rust spots. Had a car's shock rust out the bottom and spill its fluid once. No thanks! The load plates up top were looking rough too, so I cleaned and painted them as well.








Note, these are some of the first shots from my new to me Nokia 1020. It takes very clear, detailed shots, I'm pretty excited about it so far.

V8droptop

More non sequitur. I have dug up some photos of my car from the past. In some ways, I miss it when I first picked it up.

Meierznutz

My Brother bought a silver 05 'Speed in Virginia Beach last fall... 10k miles when we jumped in it to drive home! If I hand not owned "Nadine" first I could have been happy with the power. For me excess is just the beginning.

V8droptop

Can't believe you found an 05 with 10k miles in 2013. That's a hell of a steal. If you see any more like that, Let me know, I'd love a Lava orange with sub 30k miles.

With bolt ons and the upgraded compressor wheel, that car was plenty for most days. It was a blast to drive. Good suspension and 15x9 6uls really makes it something else.

Can't wait for the v8 project to finish though. Going to be a crazy car.

Meierznutz

The day he bought it the dealer had a Lava Orange with the Big Enchilada kit parked next to it. Had some miles but I almost had them talked into a 2-fer at a killer deal. I needed the funds for my Exocet though.

V8droptop

L-O with that kit, if it had the turbo especially, would be a great car to have. Love that color (only one with silver stitching If I recall) and about 210-220 hp, plenty enough to have fun and enjoy a well balanced Miata.

Exocet, that's going to be something to see. When summer hits, I hope to get around to more car events this year, would love to see some of these things.


*update*

Well, more money has exchanged hands. If anyone has ever worked on the road in hotels or camps, as time drags on and on, well this tends to happen!

So, almost $1,000 in bolts and gaskets later... I should have enough to get the engine to long block when I get home. After that I still have to add some accessories and a ls3 vette starter. Don't like the idea of the $400 starter, though.

Either way, the heads, intake, throttle body, and about everything is at home. However, I'm having a hang up with the engine builder on the block. In that he doesn't call or write emails. So, I have to constantly bother him for updates via phone, and I don't get much other than, oh, we did this or that... but after this long, it should be complete. Once that's sorted, I'm going to focus on building the engine in preparation to dyno it, and then I will move back to the chassis.

On the chassis, the rear subframe/diff/axles/5-bolt hubs are all finished up, just waiting on painting that. Also exciting.

Cheers

V8droptop

Its been slow this winter, lots of work, insulating the garage, other projects taking up my time aside from the Miata. As well as being out of the country for work, we took one trip out of the country and i'm doing the same in February, well, because winters in Fargo in February suck horrible. So I'm not playing that next month. I will be in for a day, then not back till the 26th, when I start more engine work

Other than that, nothing huge to report. Got a lot of parts in during December, made a few bits of bits of progress to report. Decided on researching a dry sump, just too much into this to risk the failure so many have seen on track. Thought I could make it with all the tricks and a wet sump, but its not worth saving a few hundred to blow a very spendy and laborious project motor.

Came up with new injectors, originally was thinking of stock 42lb ls7 units w/higher fuel pressure, decided it was overly complicated and actually cost more than LS9 units at 55ish, which was the new plan. Then, after some thinking, was worried about running out of fuel at 80% Duty cycle on the 55s, so finalized on 63lb simens injectors. Probably more than I need, but it will be in the ball park, probably not enough injector for E85 though.

Did more work on the rear, got the axles (factory five roadster units) in, tested, they work like I'd hoped. Quite glad. Only a few more steps on the front/rear subframes and I'm happy with their setup, with 5-lug and the brakes I'm building.

Got some parts in, pretty much all the gaskets/bolts I need for the engine build, few other little odds and ends. Tony mamo formerly of AFR now of Mamomotorsports delivered on the intake/heads/cam/throttle body, all matched together to make an awesome top end setup, and TNT Racing in Gurnee, IL is now finished with the Darton sleeve install on the Stock LS7 bottom end. On Feb 16th I pick it up.

Here's some photos from the last few months of parts/etc
https://plus.google.com/photos/11668...96202559040705

523-LSX-NB

It's coming along. That Mamo combo will make that LS7 a friggin' beast. I don't know how he manages to carve in the swirl wing, with any consistency from bowl to bowl, but he does it. Guess that's why guys like him are the professionals.

In leu of the dry sump, have you researched an Accusump & a wet sump/oil pan setup? The Accusump will protect it on track & act as a pre-oiler @ start up.

V8droptop

I did look into an accusump, I haven't ruled it out, but It doesn't seem like the best system. I've read a handful of issues with air leaks causing the bladder to go empty, and then the relief valve puking on start up. It seems more of a band-aid than actual solution. Doesn't sound fun. As well, with the custom pan+accusump added, its pretty close to the cost of an ARE stage 1 dry sump which uses a 2-stg scavenge and the OE pump.

In reality, there is nothing wrong with the OE oil pump, its the drain/return system that is a problem, and I've not read of any effective solutions save accusump/dry sump. So long as the OE oil pump has a steady supply of oil, everything works fine. Its the pooling in the head/ sloshing in the sump and aeration that kill them. I am convinced the 2 stage scavenge system is the way to go for me, as it takes care of the only oiling system flaw, and its not going overkill to a 4-5 stage system.

Btw, not only is Tony top notch with his hands, but his customer service is bar-none the best I've dealt with. Him and Abe at ARTech are the best automotive aftermarket buisnesses I've ever dealt with. I've had nightmares with others, such as Mike Keegan (head porting) and TNT racing, while good, was slow and has 0 communication. So, the extra money to go for Tony in my case was well worth it over other, larger firms. Katech I hear is great as well, but I'm glad I went with Tony, and I know the dyno won't disappoint, either.